top of page
Writer's pictureJeff Zwally

My O Circuit Diary: A Patagonian Adventure of a Lifetime




When people ask me about the most epic hiking experience of my life, my mind instantly travels back to December 2017, when I completed the legendary O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park. This challenging 6-day trek through the heart of Patagonia isn't just a hike—it's a journey through some of the most spectacular geography on Earth.

The Route: A Geographical Marvel

The O Circuit is a 110-120 km (68-75 mile) loop that showcases the park's most stunning features:

Key Landmarks

  1. Lake Nordenskjöld: A turquoise jewel stretching over 28 km, its waters reflecting the jagged peaks above

  2. Valle Frances: A stunning valley flanked by hanging glaciers, where the sound of ice calving echoes off granite walls

  3. Los Cuernos: Distinctive horn-shaped black and white peaks, created by millennia of geological drama

  4. Grey Glacier: An otherworldly blue ice field that seems plucked from beyond The Wall in Game of Thrones

Day-by-Day Trail Experience

Day 1: Las Torres to Refugio Dickson

  • Distance: 18 km (11.2 miles)

  • Highlights: Initial views of the park's eastern side

  • Campsite: Refugio Dickson, nestled in a peaceful valley with its own small lake

Day 2-3: The Northern Stretch

  • Key points: Los Perros Glacier, ramping up for the pass

  • Accommodation: Basic camping at Campamento Los Perros

  • Terrain: Transitions from lenga forests to more exposed alpine environment

Day 4: The Summit Challenge

  • The infamous John Gardner Pass (1,241 m / 4,072 ft)

  • Blizzard conditions at the top (our experience in December!)

  • First sighting of Grey Glacier from the pass - an unforgettable moment

Day 5: Grey Glacier to Campamento Italiano

  • Highlights: Following the glacier's edge

  • Staying at: Refugio Grey, with close-up views of the glacier

  • Notable features: Three suspended bridges over dizzying valleys

Day 6: Valle Frances and Finale

  • The natural amphitheater of Valle Frances

  • Lake Nordenskjöld's turquoise waters accompany the final stretch

  • Los Cuernos peaks dominate the skyline

Essential Planning Details

Camping and Refugios

Key overnight stops include:

  1. Refugio Dickson: Last comfortable stop before the pass

  2. Campamento Italiano: Gateway to Valle Frances

  3. Refugio Grey: Prime glacier viewing location

Weather Considerations

Patagonian weather is notoriously fickle. In our December trek, we experienced:

  • Warm, sunny days along Lake Nordenskjöld

  • Bitter cold and blizzard conditions at John Gardner Pass

  • Everything in between!

Training for the Terrain

The diverse geography demands varied preparation:

  1. Elevation training: For the 1,200m elevation gain to John Gardner Pass

  2. Load bearing practice: Hiking with a 25-pound pack

  3. Endurance building: For long days covering varied terrain

Typical Daily Demands

  • Distance: 15-20 km (9-12 miles)

  • Elevation change: 500-1,000m (1,640-3,280 ft)

  • Hiking time: 6-8 hours

Wildlife Encounters

The diverse geography supports varied wildlife:

  • Guanacos grazing in the valleys

  • Andean condors soaring near Los Cuernos

  • Possible sightings of elusive pumas

Practical Tips for Each Section

  1. Eastern Side (Days 1-2)

    • Easier terrain, good for finding your rhythm

    • Take time to acclimate to your pack

  2. Northern Section (Days 3-4)

    • Most challenging part

    • Crucial to start early for the pass crossing

  3. Western Side (Days 5-6)

    • More technical with suspension bridges

    • Glacier views make challenging sections worthwhile

Final Thoughts

From the turquoise waters of Lake Nordenskjöld to the towering peaks of Los Cuernos, from the blizzard at John Gardner Pass to the ethereal blue of Grey Glacier, every step of the O Circuit offers a new perspective on Patagonia's magnificent geography. This trek isn't just about the physical challenge—it's about experiencing some of the most dramatic and diverse landscapes on the planet.

As you make your way through the ever-changing terrain, you'll understand why this remote corner of the world has captured the imagination of adventurers for generations. The O Circuit isn't just a hike; it's a journey through a geographical masterpiece, where every valley, peak, and glacier tells a story of the Earth's incredible power and beauty.

For those considering this trek: prepare thoroughly, respect the wilderness, and get ready to be humbled and inspired by some of the most spectacular geography our planet has to offer.

8 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All

Comentarios


bottom of page